Help with top-down set-in sleeve

Can anyone help me figure out what’s going on with this sleeve cap? First time doing a set-in sleeve from the armhole down and this is my second attempt. My first try, using the pattern instructions, I ended up with a sleeve angle that felt like it would be hard to lift my arms, so I tried adjusting the shaping using Elizabeth Doherty’s book Top Down, and now I’ve got too much fabric in the cap. The armhole on the body fits perfectly, so I know that’s not the issue. I’m about ready to give up and turn it into a vest, except it would be too warm to wear and my arms would freeze.

Any suggestions appreciated. I’ve not had this issue with any set-in sleeves worked bottom-up.

I only have general advice because I haven’t made any set in sleeve sweaters, but I never hesitate to rip back and redo if I’m not happy with the fit- why settle for a vest if you want a sweater? And it’s coming out gorgeous! So I would rip back that sleeve and try with fewer increases, but pause after knitting maybe 4 inches and try it on. Maybe try to reverse engineer from a bottom up sweater of the same weight that fits well? Good luck!

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Thank you. I’ll see if I have another set-in sleeve sweater in this weight - I haven’t made one in awhile! If it doesn’t work out, I may actually try knitting the sleeves bottom up.


I think it might be a difference in the row gauge between the stockinette sleeves and the cabled body. Maybe measure the gauges and adjust accordingly - ie knit to a measured length rather than a set number of rows? That’s just my instinct…
Those cables are gorgeous!